A Switzerland Story: Climbing Schilthorn… in the off season

We set out on our hike from Murren, a picturesque mountain village, just before sunset. At the start, the trail was relatively easy to navigate and clear of snow. However, as we ventured deeper into the mountains, we found ourselves trekking through meadows blanketed in deep snow. As we hiked through the evening, a nearly full moon emerged, illuminating the valley and landscape around us. As we approached our stopping point for the night, the Rotstockhütte, we spotted a couple of mountain goats making their way up the mountain. We were truly isolated by our surroundings, away from tourist and other hikers: just us, some goats, and the mountains.

Rotstockhütte (the building on the left), a small hut typically providing food and shelter for hikers on this trek during the hiking season, had been closed for at least a month. With this in mind, we packed our summer tent and sleeping bags rated for 20F and prepared to brave the sub-zero temperatures that the night would bring. Upon arriving at the Rotstockhütte that night, we searched desperately for a way out of the cold, but all doors and windows were locked for the winter. Fortunately, the out-of-use goat barn next to it (building on the right) was unlocked, and we found some mattresses stacked away on the top floor.

We relished our good fortune over a warm supper, card games, and an episode of Better Call Saul. We turned in for the night, ready for the big hike to the summit the next morning.

3000 feet, one morning: In the summer, this nearly 10,000 foot mountain is not a hike for beginners. Climbing Schilthorn in November, though, brings further challenges. In the morning we found our water to be mostly frozen and boots, having been soaked the night before, frozen and unbendable. We each carried backpacks stuffed with clothing, food, water, and camping equipment. On our boots we wore crampons to handle the icy ascent, and to be able to navigate the snow (which at times was up to our knees) without slipping. Starting at sunrise, we hiked for hours, the whole time with the summit destination in sight: The Piz Gloria glass observatory. There were no other hikers; we had a mountain range to ourselves, the snow smooth and trackless. Initially, we were both cold, but soon the sun peeked over the mountains and by the time we made it to the ridgeline, there was little to complain about.

Another hour, and we were enjoying an all-you-can-eat brunch in the 360° restaurant at the summit, surrounded by tourists who had taken the tram up the front side of the mountain. From Murren to Schilthorn was roughly 7 miles and +4,500ft climb, making our total climb over the last 3 days +11,500ft. Overall, it was an unforgettable adventure that few can claim to have enjoyed, whose challenge equaled its reward.

Story by: Matthew Kirven and Max White

Photography by: Matthew Kirven

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